
Being in Turkey today reminds me of why it’s important that we should travel. Again we had a private tour, and as we got off the ship, this beautiful young woman in Western clothes was standing there with a sign with my name on it. Her name was Melike and she was going to be our guide. (This worried me at first in that this tour was quite inexpensive compared to some of the others. It was $156 with all fees to all the different places included. I assumed a driver/guide as with the other tours so far. But it was the right price for both people!)
Melike guided us to a very nice, plush Mercedes minivan with it’s own driver and away we went for the tour. She spoke English very well and was a very interesting person in her own right. My stereotypical impression of Turkey had been that it was probably much like the other Muslim countries but it seems that’s not necessarily true. While we were driving, we all exchanged personal info as we often do with people we feel affinity with. She has a boyfriend (nice looking guy–met him because he was guiding another group) and they live together. He does the cooking and she does the cleaning (or as she laughingly said, she hired a cleaning woman.) Sounds like us, doesn’t it? The country has a lot of Western attributes as well as traditional ones, which for some reason I had always assumed more like Iran, I guess. Just goes to show we should never assume.
She also commented on Islam, saying that she was embarrassed by the jihadists. She thinks there are good Muslims (the ones who practice their religion with love as called for in the Koran), the bad Muslims (the terrorists). In other words, why can’t we all get along? I really enjoyed her company. Her whole family is now into the guide business now. Her father was an Air Force career person and is retiring from there soon. Her sister is studying “guiding” at the university and will be joining the family in their endeavors. BTW, they have public schools and private schools. The public schools are for those that keep their grades up and attend regularly and the private schools are for those who didn’t make it in the public schools so they have to pay to attend school. Same for universities–free for those who study and make good grades, not open to those who don’t. Sounds like something we should think about.
Anyway, on to the tour. Our port was Kusadasi and from there we would go to some of the world’s most famous ruins–Ephesus. Amazing because they have basically just started excavating them in the 1960s and there are so many which are intact. For instance, sidewalks made of mosaics, intact. Roads along the center, intact. Rooms in villas intact with mosaics and painting on the walls. One whole wall of one of the world’s largest libraries is intact. A Roman bath/latrine mostly intact, showing marble benches around two walls, with about 30 holes cut into them for people to sit on to go to the bathroom. Underneath was a flowing water system to flush away all the excrements, down into their sewer system. In the center was a place for musicians who played music to drown out any unpleasant noises. If the marble was cold, then slaves could sit on it first to warm it up for their masters. The Romans thought hygiene was very important and understood it kept illnesses from spreading.
Great libraries, sewer systems, running water, and many other innovations BC–how did we get back to the Dark Ages???? I was pondering this question and Melike’s opinion is that it was because of religion of that time–in order to keep power, the people have to be subjugated in some way and part of that is by keeping them ignorant. They are more likely to be followers instead of revolutionaries. See–I told you she was interesting.
Well, back to the tour. It just so happened that when we were in Turkey, it was one of their religious holidays so Ephesus was closed until 11:00 a.m. All the bus tours were going to be there at the same time. Melike suggested we see some other sights first and get to Ephesus later in the afternoon. So we headed to the House of the Virgin Mary first (which in itself was quite crowded.) It’s just a tiny house that has been made into a chapel now and after we go through, we can light a candle to have our prayers answered and there is a “wishing wall” where one can pray to have wishes granted. (It is posited that this site might be true because on the cross, Jesus told John to take care of his mother–and to his mother that John would be her son. John had a home in Turkey and it’s thought it was possible he brought her there.)
After our visit to Mary’s house, we went to the Temple of Artemis (only one column left standing), to a 14th century mosque, and to St. John’s basilica (which is surprisingly large and many areas still standing.) John was buried here and so it was decided to build the basilica over the tomb. We next made a stop to a place to see a carpet making demonstration. Melike asked if we would like to see it–we didn’t have to go, but Charlie was interested so we made the stop. The Turks make carpets with double knots and they are really beautiful. I probably would have brought home a Turkish souvenir but the carpets were out of my price range even though they threw in the shipping for free. I probably appreciated the workmanship more than Charlie could because I know how time consuming it is, especially with the petit point kind that are framed. Those kind of carpts take years sometimes to do, with the finest of silk. Because I do counted thread embroidery, I have a sense of the technique of doing the patterns. Charlie was astounded though at the difference turning the carpet to see the nap in a different light caused such a color changes.

Weaving Turkish carpets made by the double knot system–only in Turkey
Finally, we headed towards Ephesus, starting at the uphill end so that we could walk downhill., All the drivers have been very thoughtful of Charlie’s problems with walking and have assisted him a lot. (I think this trip has shown him his limitations because he’s talking about seeing a doctor when he gets back.) It’s amazing what they have managed to excavate in 50+ years and all of it is very exciting. Melike and I took the extra trip up and down steep stairs to see the villas that they have excavated showing whole rooms intact and the work they are doing at putting the “puzzle pieces” together.

St. John’s Basilica

Hadrian’s Arch
Oh, one more story Melike told us–when the guy (forgot his name–will have to look up) wanted to build a new city, he asked the oracle where he should build it. So she told him he should look for the signs of a fish and a boar. He hunted far and wide and couldn’t find the signs together. When he had just about given up, a fish jumped out of the sea and onto the land, and a boar ran up and carried it away. The reason he was told to look for the fish and the boar is because the fish was symbolic of being able to feed themselves with fish and that the water would be important for trade. The boar was symbolic of the plenty of meat to eat as well as it must be a fertile area in order to keep wildlife alive. And, Melike says, oracles were usually women because isn’t it usual that women have always had to give men good advice about where to live? LOL.

Ephesus’s Great Library
I’ve rambled on a lot. Probably used most of my minutes on this one. Hope you enjoyed it.